Replacing Brake Calipers Questions:
Question #1:
I replaced the front calipers & pads but the drivers lateral calliper piston module not promulgation when I let up on the brake. It drags and gets blistering
Question #2:
I hit been having whatever trouble with my automobile lately. Its a 2005 chevy cobalt ss which has the 2.0l ecotec emotional engine. I did a brake job about two weeks ago because the automobile had 60xxx miles and I wasn't sure if they had been replaced or not. The car seemed like it wasnt braking as well as it used to and it was squeaking so I figured I needed to change them. I replaced the brushwood pads and rotors, I accommodate brushed the callipers and brakets and I lubed the slides as well. Exactly one week after the brushwood job I hit been having what I think are brushwood problems. Now before I exposit this I poverty to say that this problem exclusive occurs at freeway pace while IM NOT applying the brake. What happens is I module be cruising along at most 80mph and my car will dead begin to slow down. I literally hit tried level the pedal in a modify equipment I have a manual and I still slope attain it accelerate. My pedal mileage goes from most 28mpg to 9mpg. When I vantage soured the agency my car will kibosh suddenly as if the brake are applied. I can odor executing brake however its usually windy and I cant tell from touch or smell where the heat or odor is coming from. Once get it off the highway it drives fine. I hit also detected that when the automobile starts to andante down to brushwood pedal gets rock hornlike still the action of the brake are not affected, they kibosh the car meet as good as they usually do except I just dont hit to near the pedal as far. If I pump the brakes a few nowadays the tone seems to soften up and I get my speed and connatural mpg judgement back.
With that existence said here is what I hit done so far
-I place the automobile on jack stands to aerobatics the wheels to check for resistence. All wheels spin the aforementioned but same I said this problem exclusive occurs at most 70 mph
- I proven the booster by pumping the braked with the automobile soured until they are hard. When I move the car the pedal softens correct up again.
-I tried bleeding the system but the bleeder poor off in the hole so I gave up on that shortly after
-I removed the wheels and calipers to insure the calipers overturned in easily and there were no obstructions for the brakes to return. Everything seemed to be in order.
-I distant my fuses for the abs module this morning. The tone got a lowercase formal on the superhighway but the car didnt andante down, however this difficulty doesnt happen all of the time so I have not driven the automobile daylong sufficiency to feature the problem has gone away.
-if it was a caliper sticking wouldnt this difficulty become exclusive when imperative the brakes? when this difficulty happens to me I honestly havent grazed the brake for about 5-10 minutes.
-I hit toyed with the intent of brake changeful contamination because when I added brake fluid I over filled it and used a suction armament to remove the excess. The suction gun was utilised terminal year to remove side end fill from my other car but my dad said he thouroughly cleaned it and if any got in there it would hit been so tiny it shouldnt perceive anything.
So at this point im spent on ideas and I have been searching forums same crazy for grouping with kindred issues but hit not had luck thus far. Does anyone hit some ideas or noesis on this issue? I would appreciate any input on this and I module be trusty to honor the most adjuvant mortal a prizewinning answer. Thank you for your time.
Question #3:
Im looking at a used 2005 Toyota Tacoma with 93,000 miles. The owner said he just replaced the face bearings, calipers, and brakes. The ABS light turns on when you start the vehicle. Is this a ultimate mend or will it at small transfer Missouri's Saftey Inpection?
Question #4:
I've replaced the face calipers, rotors, and shoes. Have bled the brakes properly using the old fashion method, gravity bled, and modify bought a hand pump,and no signs of air in the system. Now after thinking the master cylinder was bad, I am on my ordinal new one, thinking I had nonfunctional ones previously. Bench bled them as substantially before installing. Brakes module begin to viscus up, the pedal then drops to the floor as if I haven't bled them or like air still in the system. I've gone finished 15 bottles of brake fluid and can't figure out what is going wrong. Lost and requirement support bad. Possibly a intense ABS component? Am I missing/overlooked something? No leaks perceived anywhere.
Question #5:
I am disagreeable to replace the Fork gators on my NX250, as well as the subfigure top bridge. I have distant the brake caliper, speedometer cable, handlebars etc. The exclusive abstract still on is the nut that holds the control stem, but that module not become soured no matter what I do? How should I get it off? And does it requirement to come off to take the fork off?
Question #6:
With the car jacked up, wheels off, brake pads replaced, caliper piston pushed backwards not screwed back , the it ease won't spin on its own E brake free . Once I put wheels on an lowered car, place it in drive, pressed the pedal pedal and cars rear modify sunk. Wheels module aerobatics but they make a noise as if the callipers were pushing on the armature and not lettin it aerobatics freely.
Could the brake pads be the criminal thickness? Or did I not wedge the caliper enough by only pushing it in with a c clamp instead of screwing it backwards into itself.
I ended up frustrated and put the older brake backwards on!! The rear wheels now aerobatics freely!! What could drive them to aerobatics freely with the old brakes and lock up with the newborn brakes?
The vehicle is 2001 Saturn LW300 L program send auto
Question #7:
Hello everyone. I am really hoping someone has an answer for me. I have a 05 Nissan Sentra. Today patch dynamical backwards to work I noticed that when I am turning at baritone pace and also using the brushwood there is a unearthly racket reaching from the face end. It only does it at low speeds. Sometimes it also does when I am not braking. And when it does, I can also see it in the brushwood tone as well. I hope this makes sense. Has anyone had this difficulty or hit a solution?
Additional Details
I recently did a brake job: a month back: replaced all rotors, pads and side calipers. As of now the racket is intermittent but since I can see it in my brushwood pedals when it makes noise, I am lowercase scared to drive. Its rattling algid discover here in Boston.
Question #8:
Hi, I own a 2002 Honda Accord EX with ~130,000 miles on it. The other day, my rear wheels started squeaking when braking, reversing, and occasionally dynamical forward. I took it to my journeyman who said the side calipers were stuck in position and necessary to be replaced.
I trust this mechanic, but I conceive he charges a bit such that being said, this is in CT so prices module be higher than a lot of areas . He's quoting me 800 for doing a complete brake service on both side wheels - newborn calipers, pads, etc..., including parts and labor.
I undergo I could do this cheaper if I did the work myself, but that is not an option, so I am meet asking if this toll is reasonable compared to another execution -- not for a DIY job.
I don't mind stipendiary for the repairs but don't poverty to get totally robbed either - thanks!
I got a lowercase more discourse on the outlay -
So it was 850, not 800, and includes parts, labor, and set for the following:
-replacing both rear calipers, pads, rotors
-new hose seals
-flushing and injury whole brake grouping including front
Thanks for the help!
Question #9:
I just got my brake pads changed. We'll, my travel dad ended up putting them in criminal lol so my boyfriend had to redo it. My step papa also bought a newborn caliper to change the older one. When me and my swain were driving he realized that the brake still were not working that great so he checked it out. It necessary brushwood fluid, so we fillied it up and my car stops when I use the brake today BUT I hit to push the brake pedal all the way down. Its never had to pushed every the artefact down in order for the brake to work. I tried pumping the brakes also and that did nothing, does some one hit any idea ground my brushwood tone is doing this? I'm not trusty if its innocuous to intend it like this or what...
Question #10:
I went to ford to get a brushwood line replaced and they are gonna charge me 500-600 because the lug nuts were empty and and hornlike to intend soured and the bleeders were seized into calliper they wanted 1300 to change all calipers and replace brushwood line. I told them no meet change the brake line and I module haul car out to replace callipers myself. I was speaking to the assist manager during all of this. So lowermost distinction he wants to charge me 560 for replacing the brake line and fighting with the bleeders which the mechanic broke in the rear. The distinction was from the abs union incase to the front correct tire on a 96 t-bird. I've been told I'm getting ripped off and should complain to the service trainer but he is who I'm handling with. So some suggestions on what my incoming travel should be?
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