Removing Brake Rotors Questions:

Question #1:

Anyone know anything about brake systems?

I have been having some pain with my automobile lately. Its a 2005 chevy metal ss which has the 2.0l ecotec supercharged engine. I did a brake job about digit weeks past because the automobile had 60xxx miles and I wasn't sure if they had been replaced or not. The car seemed same it wasnt braking as substantially as it utilised to and it was squeaking so I figured I needed to change them. I replaced the brake pads and rotors, I wire soft the callipers and brakets and I lubed the slides as well. Exactly one hebdomad after the brake employ I hit been having what I think are brushwood problems. Now before I exposit this I want to feature that this problem exclusive occurs at freeway pace while IM NOT applying the brake. What happens is I will be cruising along at most 80mph and my car will dead begin to andante down. I literally have proven flooring the pedal in a modify gear I hit a drill and I ease cant attain it accelerate. My gas distance goes from most 28mpg to 9mpg. When I vantage off the agency my automobile will kibosh suddenly as if the brake are applied. I can smell executing brake still its commonly windy and I cant verify from touch or odor where the modify or smell is coming from. Once intend it off the route it drives fine. I have also detected that when the car starts to slow downbound to brake pedal gets sway hornlike however the action of the brake are not affected, they kibosh the car just as good as they usually do except I meet dont have to push the tone as far. If I pump the brake a few nowadays the tone seems to change up and I get my acceleration and normal mpg rating back.

With that being said here is what I hit finished so far
-I put the automobile on diddley stands to aerobatics the wheels to analyse for resistence. All wheels aerobatics the same but same I said this problem exclusive occurs at about 70 mph

- I tested the thief by pumping the braked with the automobile off until they are hard. When I move the automobile the pedal softens correct up again.

-I proven injury the grouping but the bleeder broke off in the mess so I gave up on that presently after

-I removed the wheels and callipers to insure the callipers turned in easily and there were no obstructions for the brake to return. Everything seemed to be in order.

-I removed my fuses for the abs module this morning. The pedal got a lowercase stiff on the freeway but the car didnt slow down, still this problem doesnt hap all of the instance so I have not driven the automobile long enough to say the problem has absent away.

-if it was a calliper sticking wouldnt this problem become only when imperative the brakes? when this difficulty happens to me I honestly havent touched the brakes for most 5-10 minutes.

-I hit toyed with the intent of brushwood changeful dirtying because when I additional brake fluid I over filled it and utilised a suction armament to vanish the excess. The suction armament was utilised last year to remove side modify fill from my other automobile but my papa said he thouroughly clean it and if some got in there it would hit been so tiny it shouldnt perceive anything.

So at this point im spent on ideas and I have been searching forums like crazy for grouping with similar issues but hit not had luck thus far. Does anyone hit some ideas or noesis on this issue? I would appreciate some input on this and I will be trusty to honor the most helpful mortal a prizewinning answer. Thank you for your time.

Question #2:

Emergency brake shoe tension?

Hello!

I hit a 2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD that I have meet replaced the rear brushwood rotors on, and I am apprehensive about the crisis brushwood shoes. It took meet over an distance to remove one armature with a 5# mallet because of the enmity of the crisis brake shoes on the inner drum of the rear brushwood rotor. The crisis brushwood was NOT engaged. While I do not typically use the emergency brake, I institute the crisis brushwood shoes to exhibit a high honor of wear. Considering the amount of brushwood footgear wear and the enmity of the disengaged brushwood position on the rotor drum, I have to wonder:

a is there too such tension on the disengaged crisis brushwood shoes, thereby feat an unreasonable and unnecessary amount of wear?

b With the amount of enmity present, how badly has this effected the render economy of the truck! In the first few years of operation, it was not uncommon to see almost 20 mpg route from the diesel engine ... now the pushcart seems to be serendipitous to see 16 mpg highway .

c If the emergency brushwood shoe enmity is excessive, how crapper I modification the amount of tension?

Thank you for your advice and assistance!
With the rotors on the axle assembly, it was impossible to access any interior conception of the e-brake mechanism. According to a topical journeyman and the topical parts accumulation where I acquired the newborn rotors, the e-brake position are not adjustable. What bothers me, is that the rotors required excessive force to remove, and I believe that is the offender for the slummy distance I hit been experiencing ... but internally, the e-brake gathering looks just same the old fashioned study brakes I grew up with ... except no adjustment port!

Question #3:

my mountain bikes hydraulic REAR brake stopped working after removing the wheel?

I took my rear wheel/brake disc off of my elevation bike to mend a puncture, patch it was off i squeezed the brake lever and it closed the round pads, but after swing the rotate back on it doesnt work when i squeeze it, it just rubs the rotor O_o, do i requirement to spread them or meet adjust them??

Question #4:

how much could i sell my modded talon for?

here is what is done to my 1990 raptor talon tsi fwd with around 260000km:
Fully restored 4G63T engine at 240000 kilometers Everything in the engine replaced
-ARP nous studs kit
-aftermarket turbo manifold
-Titanium valves and regulator springs
-Balance dig deleted
-Evo 3 wear manifold and Big 16G turbo, sort newborn at 240000 kilometers as well
-Exedy Stage 2 clutch kit
-HKS blow-off valve
-Walbro 255LPH fuel pump
-Spearco front mount intercooler with metal piping and Vibrant couplers
-Autometer Boost and Air/fuel ratio gauges in champion pod
-Tanabe adjustable shocks with lowering springs
-Magnaflow muffler/Catalytic converter deleted
-Polished 16 inch rims
-Powerslot rotors with Hawk brake pads
-Grant steering wheel
-B&M stagehand knob
-koyo rad
- air conditioning removed for weight reduction
-euro tailights
-car was painted reddened blue
-addedd black cut and bodykit
-fuzion zr1 tires
-lowered 3 inches
-just restored locomote cod to panting nous gasket so has every brand new gaskets waterpump timing track semiautomatic tensioner also place in new camshafts and had the head freshly milled and always ran full synthetic oil
-car is streaming at 10psi but hit increase controller and turbo official still in package yet to be installed module delude with car.
-motor and turbo can saftely separate at 20 psi and makes around 300hp
im hunting to sell this car and not rattling trusty what a good asking toll would be because modify though it has every these parts its not the awd version everyone wants, thanks for the help.

Question #5:

Thinking of buying a 91 300zx TT In "good" condition?

For understanding that I found is a RHD 1991 300ZX twin turbo with 68,000KM w/ drill transmission.
Full Authentic Veilside Body kit worth over 8,000 for the whole kit rims, exhaust, side skirts, rear bumper, hood and face bumper
Only filled up with premium bomb gas
Car has never been abused or bagged
Car stock has 300hp, very fast car!
Has never seen deceive or driven in the rain. Always garage stored in the winter.
No leaks, creaks, rust or knocking. Very clean
Have all original commercialism papers
Car has t-tops that do not revealing very thin in a 300 as the rubber gets older and breakable
Car has PW, PL, PS, AC not hooked up and HICAS
Car runs on 15/40 Royal Purple Synthetic oil with K&N lubricator filter and is denaturized every 1,500km
Car has Royal purple in the differential, noesis steering and drill sending denaturized discover 1,000km ago
Coolant flush done in terminal 1,000km
Timing belt was finished at 50,000km, this included:
-Timing Belt
-Timing Belt Tensioner
-Camshaft lubricator seals
-Crankshaft oil seal
-VTC Springs
-VTC Cover Plate O-rings
-Thermostat
-Water Pump very common failure on 300s
Serpentine belts were every finished at 50,000km
-Power steering belt
-A/C Belt
Alternator Belt
Engine was overhauled last winter to establish the intakes and to decent up the engine bay.
Overhaul included:
-New intake plenum gasket
-New half slug seals for each valve counterbalance rattling ordinary issue on 300s
-New hoses on everything Coolant hoses, Fuel lines, Air lines, PCV Lines ect
-New PCV'S
-New belt sensor and belt device wiring
-New throttle body gaskets
-New IAA gaskets
-New regulator counterbalance gaskets
-New fuel filter
Mods:
-Dual intakes with Stelin polyglot makes it so you crapper ingest digit Mass air flow sensors so the car reads the air aright
-Front Mounted intercooler with 2.5" piping
-Hard pipes reaching off apiece throttle body
-APEXI bov's
-APEXI Manual Booster Controller
-BLITZ Turbo timer
-Carbon Canister Removed
-EGR Removed
-PRVR Removed
-Throttle body coolant bypass
-Veilside Cat back exhaust
-Momo steering wheel
-Nismo Short shifter
-Custom Sparco racing way wrapped in suede
-Lowered with TEIN springs
-Slotted rotors
-Steel braided brake and fuel lines
-Custom Veilside Speedo gauges

Would this car be worth 9,000? I am seriously thinking of buying this 300zx and everything that would need to be done....Well...Is done. Let me undergo down bellow if you guys conceive this would be a good deal, its a private organisation I found around my neighbourhood so yeah. Thanks guys!

Question #6:

How to take apart 4x4 wheel hub on 1979 Ford Bronco?

I requirement to change the brushwood pads and rotors on my 1979 Ford Bronco and so far I have the callipers and the pads condemned off. And to remove the rotors and the rotate hub assembly, I am pretty trusty that the 4x4 hubs hit to be taken apart. So farther I took soured the 4x4 hub caps and whatever of the inside wheelwork and springs, but I wasn't healthy to vanish sufficiency to allow the rotate hub gathering and the rotor to motion off. The exclusive artefact I crapper vindicate how far I got with it is that the gear that is connected to the modify of the axle is exposed inside the rotate hub gathering and there is added equipment enwrapped around that digit with some kind of uncreased metal washer in front of it, and then on the outside of those digit gears there is added gear-type thing. And the terminal abstract I did was vanish a snap anulus that was between the axle gear and the gear that's wrapped around it. I have absolutely no intent what to do from here. Does anybody on here know what to do? Thanks

Question #7:

Why don't mechanics care about their reputation?

Seriously...why do so many execution do such slummy jobs and verify plus of people? In the daylong run it really doesn't pay off...

Here's what happened to me:

I was changing my own brake and rotors...As I removed the bolts on digit of my calipers both broke while still inside the mounting bracket. Most of my bolts were stuck pretty good and rusty so I didn't poverty to deal with it so I decided to call around for estimates. Here's what I got:

Most estimates over 300. All of them claimed that they could not meet put a newborn mounting redact in my automobile without additionally doing my brushwood job.

My favorite though was this estimate: 424.97. I described just what was wrong and I was told that they would need to replace my calipers, brakes, rotors, pin, and mounting brackets. "If your bolts are that bad we won't even pain disagreeable to salvage stuff because it's obviously no good."

So all that misconduct and scamming after occupation most 5 shops in my town. All I desired was a 16 part replaced and a few bolts loosened and replaced.

I had a aggregation to think most that night at work so I decided...fk it. I'd kinda essay it myself and possibly break more bolts THEN clear that much. The end termination was great. I got my brackets off eventually and replaced my rotors. I'm waiting for a few bolts and a redact from O Reilleys. The total outlay for my repair: 3 hours and 20. It took so long because I was effort evacuated from disagreeable to loosen bolts didn't have a wave forbid or anything and I also had to countenance up a lowercase information on my laptop at times.

It meet amazes me what kind of BS mechanics throw at potential customers. I am told the "trained professionals" are not confident of doing a job...

...and still a man who knows rattling lowercase about cars did it meet dustlike my prototypal brushwood employ ever...replacing my CV dig incoming because I no longer trust machine shops .
Oh I forgot one more gift this employ outlay me...

...a flooded nights rest before work. Could only sleep 4 hours because I was so anxious and my nous wouldn't kibosh racing around what I could try to do to mend stuff.
"you car is not only understandably seriously maintained it is also dangerous , for brushwood bolts to snap soured they are either substandard bolts or so seriously corroded that they represent a danger to yourself and another road users, the workshops you contacted hit obviously come to the same conclusion and are not fascinated in doing business with you and could not assort themselves with you in letting you finish the job"

My car is actually not in that bad of shape. I am the second owner and before me it was an older lady. She ostensibly didn't intend her brake denaturized very ofttimes or at least not the rotors for sure so when I proven to get the caliper and mounting bracket soured I had issues. That said the bolts weren't broken when I started...With enough obligate I got both bolts to move unscrewing...it was exclusive at the rattling end of the bolts that they must have gotten stuck in the threads and snapped maybe exclusive half an inch was mitt in the bracket .

Not to mention the fact that I live in wisconsin.
Damn some of you guys must be the people I got on the phone.

Yes I did fill up the parts and pieces for my brakes. No I don't know every of the answers to the stuff you asked about as I said in the main text I'm an average guy...I mend what I wager . And yes I springy in the north so rust is a common problem.

I can't believe that some of you who are speech in favor of the execution I dealt with are serious. My callipers function fine...I replaced my brushwood pads...I replaced my rotors...and lubed up the metal pieces for the brake pads...

And yeah I did screw something up. Two bolts broke in a 16 conception and the rest of the bolts were hornlike as hell to loosen. I didn't hit the proper tools to attain it easier on myself because I'm not a journeyman . Oh well though, shows what you guys undergo anyways. Not everyone is made out of money. My automobile has flaws and issues...but do you really conceive I'll place more money into my automobile than it's worth to fix every lowercase problem or flaw? That is the large
lol...I like the responses. Seriously attain me have even greater doubts when it comes to mechanics.

My automobile is a mete POS and it looks same a joke car. I used a metal grinder to intend disembarrass of corroding and sprayed over that with undercoating spray. It looks intense but I like it. It runs fine and I have place a decorous amount of miles on it without some earnest problems.

I still love how my fix is low question here. All I did was name a brake modify and the fact that two bolts broken. If I took it to a mechanic and he broke a couple bolts would I care? No. Bolts outlay like 2 dollars.



Oh and most the lawsuits...I'm trusty mechanics hit people who essay to blessed the execution for every lowercase thing. That sucks. But a lot of the time that opinion people get is actually caused BY THE MECHANIC. If you don't explain things people automatically module not consortium you.

And if you were really worried most lawsuits I would adopt you could do the aforementioned things grouping who verify cars to shops are told to do. Take pictures before and after.

Question #8:

how to remove brake calipers for wheel stud replacement?

i have a 2001 falsity noble procession and a pair wheel studs are damaged face traveller and front utility side . My question is, How do I safely vanish the brushwood calliper and brushwood caliper denture so that I crapper verify soured the armature and place the new cover in? what should i countenance out for...park brake cable, etc

Question #9:

Can i get some help on these Car questions Please?

1.Regarding round brushwood service...
A Normally you should hit the impact finished by a Certified technician, especially if a caliper is unseaworthy fluid
B If digit front aggrandize is 1/8 progress or inferior of lining then every four front pads should be replaced
C A armature can often be overturned to change a uncreased surface.
D All of these

2.When performing a Cooling system flush you should NOT..
A Have the engine Cold
B Run the Engine
C Take steps to remove air pockets
D Use pure antifreeze coequal to half the grouping capacity for a 50/50 mix

3.When dynamical flash plugs you should do all of the following except...
A Buy the comely replacement plugs for your car, and notch them if necessary
B Use anti-seize compound on the threads
C Pull on the plug wires to vanish then from the plugs
D Examine the Condition of the old plugs as you change them digit at a time

4.Under saint circumstances..
A Belts are important hoses should be replaced at 60,000 knot intervals if not sooner
B Spring clamps should be utilised on replacement hoses
C Cooling system dowse and Hose changes should never be combined
D All of these

5.When Changing a flat tire, you should do every of the mass before jacking up the car EXCEPT...
A Maneuver the automobile to a take opencast absent from reciprocation if possible
B Block the diagonally opposite wheel
C Remove the wheel cover
D Remove the wheel Lugs

6.Changing which of the mass is NOT a advisable do-it yourself repair?
A Valve counterbalance gasket
B Alternator
C Master Cylinder
D Thermostat

7.Correcting an lubricator revealing from a valve cover gasket...
A Is sometimes accomplished by tightening the bolts
B Always requires a newborn regulator cover
C Has up-to-date equipment, including machine diagnostics and service manuels
D Has ASE certification

8.When conversation with a service consultant you may desire to do all of the following EXCEPT..
A Report some changes in how your vehicle drives or performs
B Make a Diagnosis and state what you are willing to spend
C Consult your maintenance logbook and inform some past or unusual repairs
D Prepare a cursive unofficial of your observations, concerns, and needs

9.A Large towing capacity and azygos tank dynamical arrange are considerations for a vehicles
A Economy
B Reliability
C Performance
D Comfort

10.An older vehicles coverall economy is interdependent on its
A Fuel efficiency
B Cost of fix and repairs
C Cost of insurance
D All of these

11.Which one of the following coverages is most essential in protecting your business assets should you damage a pedestrain or another motorist?
A Bodily trauma badness
B Property damage badness
C Medical commercialism coverage
D Personal injury endorsement

Question #10:

Help Diagnose 2001 Pontiac Bonneville?

I have taken my automobile to 5 garages, 2x autozone, and 2 edge mechanics. Everyone tells me something different. I requirement help to diagnose what is wrong with my car. I obstructed meet throwing parts on til digit works like I did the terminal instance when something was wrong and everyone kept telling us assorted parts with our other vehicle today down with a transmission problem . Here's its history:
2001 pontiac bonneville v6 3.8 not supercharged
bought 2 years ago
battery and fuse box low back seat
since bought, some lights don't work on heater/radio. status curb reddened comes on erst in a while.
1 yr ago, every brakes and rotors were changed
1 yr ago, lubricator was expulsion into antifreeze. head gaskets were replaced.
1 yr ago tried to start after fastening at gas station, constructive post lapse soured battery. replaced battery.
6 months ago fuel neck replaced for inspection
sometimes, fearful maybe melting accommodate smell right of vehicle.
sometimes, lubricator burning smell inside
5 months ago fuse box under back centre extremely hot. journeyman referred us to dealer. moneyman located wires and connections to be replaced in primer box. journeyman fixed everything with primer box.
few life later, meter reddened was out. took it backwards a some times over the past few months. every instance it rains hard, it seems to get dewy and the journeyman takes ground off low backwards seat, wipes it dry, reattaches and everything seems dustlike until it rains again. some broadcasting and/or bullet lights don't impact either way.
4 wks now automobile sputters when play about every other time. dies. starts correct backwards up.
2 wks ago, went to pedal station minutes from home and when I came back, humectant was bubbling. regulator replaced.
2 wks ago, got cragfast after 5 mile trip. automobile was shut off and wouldn't start again. turned over but didn't start. thought low on gas. came back later, additional gas, started correct up.
2 days ago, oil pressure started descending and battery judge started dropping overturned off automobile 10 miles away. spent 15 minutes in destination. car would not start. turned over but wouldn't start. car was jumped and made it home.
this week took to autozone. they said the alternator is bad. the signaling is fine but the production is really low.
talked to mechanic who told me to disparity battery, vanish grounds, clean them, oil jelly them,and reattach them tightly.
went to look for grounds, pulled soured some cut pieces. water soaked furnishings padding and water low carpet on utility side back centre floor.
last week, put parched pedal in a full tank
check engine light comes on every some life and goes out on its own for a pair days. I hit a odb II code computer I bought at some point and the codes become up p1441 and added digit that says evap grouping error. digit garages have told me there is a very diminutive evap revealing they cannot find. I would have to find someone who has a smoke organisation but it's not important. you can drive around for years like that and it's only a secondary issue.
my brother borrowed the car backwards in july and ever since my anti-lock light has been on. garage checked and they said it's on because the evap problem. my brake now requirement to be replaced so I'm hoping when they are changed I hit them but have an infant so I can't intend them on the light module go out. I've had that hap with another container I owned.

this week mechanic found leak around front windshield on driver side. told us to put auto caulking on it. module hit to countercurrent up furnishings and encounter digit at a fling field if possible
this week, took it to mechanic for render filter equal and oil modify what he said was criminal . institute oil pressure sending unit is leaking. asked to wager and he showed me. I am ordering one online tonight.
yesterday had edge move it when it wouldn't move and sparks flew and his pushcart shut off. He has a toyota and it kicked some wave identify abstract they have. Car did not start. Let sit 5 transactions and it started.
today took it to regular appt. with garage we usually to to. he said it was the ignition. 300- 400 he wants. arena light stopped employed while he was hunting at it stopped one other time when he looked at it and he told us we are absent a relay but he didn't' have one. stopped at autozone and the guy came discover and looked and said no passage is missing. car wouldn't start. waited 10 minutes and it started.
every garage tells us something different. here are the things they 'suggest' are wrong:
alternator
bad gas
post on battery
short or bad ground
fuel pump
fuel filter
fuses/relays
bad gas
here is what it is still doing. starts after sitting. lubricator push goes down during driving, wait pressing on pedal probably module kibosh once I intend that lubricator sending organisation . after dynamical even five miles, car will not start after being closed off. sometimes sputters for about 30 seconds or less and dies. I press pedal when it sputters and rpms don't advise and it changes nothing; sputters aforementioned as i



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