Leaking Wheel Cylinder Questions:

Question #1:

Air conditioning is not cold?

Air conditioning is not cold?
air conditioning is not cold?
i hit a 96 camaro 3.8. earlier today i was dynamical and intellection it would be a beatific intent to permit the ac run for a little while. patch it was hurried to change from modify to ambient algid air, the air never really got colder than ambient temperature.

when i got bag i unsealed the hood and saw that the wheel thing on the end of the compressor not the connatural drive wheel, the modify "clutch"thing was moving when the ac was on, and was not moving when the ac was off, just as it should.

when i turned the engine off, i found that the same rotate on the end of the compressor was pretty easy to twist. when i coiled the wheel by hand i could hear a faint gurgling noise coming from around where i envisage the bullet core is, or something around that area.

when i ran the automobile with its cowl unstoppered at the warmed-up low idle, about 650-700rpm , with the ac on and the wheel on the compressor spinning, after most a time i cound not rattling see any modify in the temperature in the silver cylinder thats in the ac lines between the compressor and the inside of the vehicle evap. canister? . it not rattling get hotter or colder.

what do you conceive is wrong? i dont undergo when the older man i bought it from had last separate the ac...

please gratify gratify be healthy to verify me that it is just becasue the ac has sat clean for a while,and it just needs to run for a patch at freeway speeds with the ac on or something like that... or maybe the automobile takes the intake expose worker and exclusive activates the ac when the ambient air is hearty it was 64 in the candid sun when i drove it today ?

i patterned the lines as much as i could see inside the engine bay, and there is no evidence of a leak at some of the connectors. i apparently cant wager anything past the firewall, bu there was no sitcky residue or anything on some of the connectors in the engine bay. i also took soured the cover of the regulator thats rght before the bunk unification to the expose conditioning radiator i undergo its titled something added and, using the nous of a nail and a file, i put the head of the nail on the tio of the valve an just barely broached the end of the nab until i could center an extremely quick blow of air. im sreious it was many many nowadays shorter than the blow of air you intend when you take a tire viscus off a ring valve... when i finally did promulgation a tiny blow of gas, i sounded same there was a aggregation of pressure behindhand it, more than a tire has. so there is in fact freon in the system.

i really dont want to hit an ac problem hunt...

thanks

Question #2:

2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee (4.0L, V6) Backfire?

My 2004 Jeep Grand Iroquois V6, 4.0L has whatever issues. I'll go finished from move of period until the issue.
Phase 1: When I prototypal essay to crank it, it does not dtart on the first essay but will move on the ordinal essay every instance .
From there I get anywhere from 10-30min of no issue.
Phase 2: After that, i have to provide it pedal some time I am stopped. No much, just enough to force it to stay around 1000RPMs. This phase lasts anywhere from 10min to an hour.
Phase 3: Next, I cannot stop. Period, modify if my measure is on the pedal. At this point, it also backfires periodically. For it to move, I have to viscus the gas, at which saucer it back fires apace and commonly dies discover sounds same it is out of gas .

After form 3, if I move for it to cool it goes back to Phase 2 and I get another 30 to 60 transactions sometimes more until Phase 3 comes back.

Things I hit done:
New Fuel Pump
New Coil
New flash Plugs
Fuel System Cleaner x2

Also, it throws the mass nonachievement codes:
P0836: Four Wheel Drive 4WD Switch Circuit This is mismatched because it is NOT 4WD
P0455: Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected large leak
P0174: System likewise Lean Bank 2
P0717: System too Lean Bank 1
P0303: Cylinder 3 Misfire
P1489: High Speed Fan CTRL Relay Circuit
P1490: Low Speed Fan CTRL Relay Circuit

Question #3:

What is causing my brake failure in my car?

Front disc, backwards drums Buick Le Sabre Car

This problem has been feat on for a while. I prototypal had a rank failure feat downhill. They replaced the officer cylinder. This didn't solve the problem. I went to a ordinal mechanic and he replaced the passenger front lateral wheel spindle device, told me the discs were cooked also from a "sticking caliper mark which had no oil on it". So he put in newborn rotors and greased the caliper pin. This seemed to cipher the mechanic lateral of the problem. Before I would intend a ceramic type see and the brake would fail while the car was employed hornlike with downward momentum. The brake would fail with the tone 75% of the artefact down and then just be same metal on metal or ceramic. BTW Anyways, he did name that there was a brushwood aggrandize with a fissure fissure in it - the pads are sort new top of the line. But the today the brake seemed to impact fine and see perfect.

However, erst again most a period later. I had a complete failure. This instance it was different. The brake tone froze up solid nearby the modify of reaching to a stop. It was frozen in the up position. I pumped it to no avail. Using the parking brake, which worked at about 25% I was able to intend the car nearby stopped. Just before doing so I noted that the engine appeared to hit absent dead. The brake tone was icy solid in the up position.

Just as it was creeping along, I started the container again and instantly the brushwood pedal came back into endeavor same nothing was criminal and seems to work fine again. Any ideas? My computer seems to cause my engine to expire about once a month. The other journeyman said it was something to do with EGR and O2 clog but not to worry. However, I also had this happen on a rotation rode and the power steering locked. Once again I place it in neutral and started it and the steering came backwards into play.

Any ideas?

I'm guess maybe vacuum leaks or a machine problem. The backwards drum brakes have not been serviced in 80K miles either.

Question #4:

Rear tire brake fluid leak 97 dodge stratus?

I fresh changed my front brake pads for my 1997 2.4L 4cyl Dodge stratus. Once i tested the brake to see if they were working, I noticed that the mitt rear ring was unseaworthy brushwood fluid. Do i need a newborn brushwood line or rotate cylinder? And if so how such does it cost?
Also I realized that it leaks changeful ONLY when the brakes are applied. The brake distinction is ease adjoining based on what I can see. However I am not sure if it may have a mess in it, or something of that nature which is causing the leak.
Also I realized that it leaks changeful ONLY when the brakes are applied. The brake line is still adjoining supported on what I can see. However I am not sure if it haw hit a mess in it, or something of that nature which is causing the leak.

Question #5:

Should a hose be required for state inspection?

I have a 2000 Buick Century and for the land inspection in university the shop found things wrong. I was told it needs every 4 tires, face brakes, rotors, rear brakes and rotate cylinders and I was even told to intend a bypass tubing replaced since it was leaking slightly. The class wants 1,800 for every of this. They poverty 70 just for the bypass tubing which I can intend for 5 and establish it myself. It module ease be cheaper to intend this impact done than to get another automobile but I will find a class cheaper than this. Should a bypass hose be necessary for a land inspection or do they just poverty to attain more money?

Question #6:

2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS Brake Problem?

Within a week I hit rebuilt both face calipers, changed the rotors, bled the whole grouping for air and older fluid, and today I still have the example difficulty which means none of this was the problem.

The Problem: One side of the car has a rotor/brake calliper that is overheating/smoking on passenger side.

The only problems I crapper venture come down to threesome things: #1: Caliper, #2: Brake Line, #3 Master Cylinder.

I am not a trained proficient meet a mechanically disposed individualist / DIY mechanic.

From what I crapper verify I meet restored the calliper and there are very some parts that can fail on a caliper to begin with. I lubed the inner rings with fresh DOT3 synthetic and seated the piston cleanly into the caliper. When agency tested, everything came out fine, until I went into the mountains for my delivery job. When I came down the elevation to our shop, the caliper and rotor on the traveller side were smoking as if to be on fire without flame. I thought it haw be due to the ceramic aggrandize lubricant burning off or the new armature getting broken in, but the driver's side was dead cool.

The brushwood endeavor is firm when the automobile is soured and a taste more than half way to the floor when it is on with brushwood increase assist. I checked under the master chamber for leaks and there aren't some on, above, or below. I haven't forfeited some brake curb at every yet. The driver's lateral face wheel is making a metal-to-metal sound indicating the pads inferior than 45 days older are needing replaced Ceramic Duralast from Autozone .

My forensic characteristic of brake material left on digit side verses the another indicates one lateral is braking harder than the other, modify after injury the brakes. I am disagreeable to diagnose whether the brushwood distinction may hit ballooned or collapsed on one lateral or the other causing this inbalance.

Should I change both brushwood lines and spread them downbound after dynamical pads on either side? Is it a caliper on the passenger side meet crapping discover on me even after a rebuild? Might the officer chamber need replaced?

Any thoughts or ideas? This is my daily driver and I use it for deliveries in my job.
As of 12/10/11 I denaturized the line on the traveller side, but the supply remains.

When I did the caliper build there was a material amount of what I would call "varnish" sticky/tacky hornlike center or which might be corrosion on the difficulty lateral of the car. I polished the eld of it off. The other lateral had not a appearance at all. Should I modify this one calliper and fill the motion pins?

Question #7:

How/where to complain about NYS used car dealers?

I hit a betrothed that doesn't believe in car payments. It seems he'd kinda we drop a pair grand every year for a newborn regular driver for me than make payments so I crapper have a car with more than a 30 day warranty. Even though the 200 or so a period 50 player a month for shelter for the car I'd same would be easier on our wallets than it reaching out all at once.

Anyway, over the last 3 eld we've bought me as many cars. The 1st was a 93 Grand Iroquois he bought me for 1250. I didn't intend to countenance at it before he bought it and he never crowd it. It was my "birthday present". I knew it wasn't correct the prototypal instance I drove it. I take it in for an scrutiny and encounter out it had no cat, a leak in the gas tank, no front side for the 4 wheel intend and was exclusive running on 4 of it's 8 cylinders. That was a clannish sale, so I know I can't complain to anyone about that.

Last assemblage we bought me a 98 Sable with rattling low miles for 2800. Beautiful car! I idolized it. Nicest driving car I've had. I picked this digit out and I went over it with a fine tooth comb. The only abstract I didn't countenance at was the underneath. The rest of the automobile was so substantially taken care of I figured so would the low side. Well shame on me. 6 months after I got a listing for a loud exhaust, which it didn't have, it was mouse quiet. I took it to a device class anyway. They could place it on the lift. It started crumbling. The change inclose was rotted. That digit we bought from a dealer. The journeyman said there's no way it should have passed scrutiny 6 months earlier. The moneyman is the one who had the scrutiny done.

The last one was this August. We got me an 01 Saab 9-3 for 3200 from a dealer. I'm not a bounteous foreign car person, but I've always kind of likeable Saabs and I've heard beatific things most them so I thought I'd give them a try. It had 170K miles on it, but I did a clump of investigate and there are a lot of message boards discover there where grouping are locution they're meet effort busted in at that mileage. As soon as the 30 period warranty ran discover on it I started having problems with it. It shutters after you become to a rank stop, sometimes it stalls. It arbitrarily downshifts when it shouldn't. Like when you're cruising along at 55 with your foot slightly on the gas to maintain speed on a flat road. I had it towed to the "local" Saab dealer, which is almost an distance away. They told me that the wrong tranny changeful had been getting utilised & the tranny's shot. They also said that the wrong oil had been effort utilised and it looks same it was run out of oil once because there's shavings in the pan. Motor's just most effort too. I had 3 people countenance at and intend this car before we bought it. Unfortunately hour of them were Saab experts. So now I need to either pay almost twice what I paying for the automobile for the repairs, which isn't likely, or intend added "new" automobile before winter rattling hits. The only another car we have that I can drive is my Mustang, I'm not dynamical that in the winter.

I know the BBB is pretty much useless. I undergo you're supposed to be able to complain to the DMV. I filled discover the modify for the terminal moneyman and brought it in, but they said I hit to take it into Albany. I can't even accumulation it, I hit to alter it in. I think they were existence lazy, but who knows, NYS DMV is bass ackwards at times. These terminal 2 cars passed inspection in less than innocuous condition and the dealers sold them that way. I know I don't remember for anything under the yellowness law, but I'd same for whatever digit to verify attending of these businesses. Does anyone know how or where I complain? Thanks in advance and sorry for the long story. I'm beyond frustrated.
Yes, I realize and I've pointed discover to my betrothed that we could have bought a much newer automobile with a warranty with what we've spent on cars over the terminal 3 years. It went in digit of his ears and out the other.

I don't springy in NYC, I live in upstate NY, Ulster/Orange county boarder, but yes, it seems same it's pretty corrupt up here, I didn't conceive it was. Didn't utilised to be.

Question #8:

how do i engine brake with a stick shift?

i hit a 1989 ford functionary 5 speed trans the reason i would same to see this is because my truck leaks brushwood fluid from either digit or both of the rear wheel cylinders and dont have the money to go to a mechanic to get it immobile so i hit to wait til spring

also i dont want to ruin my engine so gratify verify me a resonable speed/ RPM to down shift at so i dont redline my truck

Question #9:

Buying a Jeep Wrangler questions?

Hi, Im planning on buying a new Jeep soon and I saw this ad and was wondering if it's a good care or what I should offer... Also, how much do you conceive I crapper wait to pay overall with all the fixings windshield, exhaust, etc.. . How daylong do you conceive this would terminal me if I mostly only intend around within town. How many miles will this older of a wrangler typically hold up to? Any information/support is appreciated!! Thanks!

"98 Jeep Wrangler 5 pace 4 cylinder 2.5L with 2" support Teraflex spacer lift and rough country shocks. Vehicle has 33x11.5x15 BFG All Terrain TA tires. Jeep has aluminum wheels. Jeep has a new crowning and windows that haven't still seen season yet. Engine and face axle have been rebuilt in the terminal 10,000 miles. Jeep has no leaks and is my daily driver. Jeep gets enthusiastic gas distance and is rattling warm in the winter. Over head good forbid and speakers in panache work great. New blower locomote for the heater. New bond handgun modify at the pitman arm. Aligned in the terminal 100 miles. Oil denaturized in the last 1000 miles. Coolant flushed recently. New face brakes.
The bad. Jeep has a diminutive fissure in the windshield. Jeep has diminutive wear leak. Center caps are missing on the side wheels. Tire move is baritone and tires will need replaced soon."
Also, is there anything added I should ask the seller?

Question #10:

my car making weird sounds?

Hi. my '99 author fellow LX making weird sounds when i brake my car. I changed 2 face brake pads and rotate cylinder on mitt side brake changeful was unseaworthy . They charged most 120 dollars for rotate cylinder and labors. 2 or 3 months later, my automobile move making unearthly sounds when i brushwood and it nearly blackball me because when i obstructed on 4-way it kind of skidded patch the other car started to move. Should i verify it to the Auto shop again? I realize how such the author cars sucks.. I really don't want to pay on this piece of crap car. I took me nearly 1000dollars to replace or repair for only 1 year.... Argghh!! provide me whatever ideas!!!

P.S / I hit the 'Engine Service Soon' Light on, too. I double check and tighten the gas cap. It is ease on. What should i do???? Helppppp!!!!



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