GM Fuel Pump Questions:

Question #1:

2005 GM 5.3 V-8 no power to fuel pump?

employed on a 2005 GM 5.3 liter V-8. The engine cranks, and has spark. the detector says no codes detected. The render viscus relay is not switching, and therefore, no power to the render pump. Pulled the render pump wire off the relay and jumped it to 12v constant. engine cranked, started and ran at idle and rev-ed. replaced relay, checked relay. all good. what crapper drive rhe relay to not get power to switch on?

Question #2:

2001 Blazer died while driving, wont start now?

Have a 2001 Chevy Blazer 4x4. While driving the other day, it meet died. Rpms meet dropped to 0, and wouldn't start back up. Pulled it home, and today it still won't move backwards up. Has a new motor from GM with exclusive 12k miles on it. embody has 180k. Fuel pump is fine, holds perfect pressure. Getting spark, checked each plug and each spark. Orcus container and rotor were replaced. ICM was checked to be beatific by autozone. It will crank and unstable til the shelling dies, and once in awhile you crapper hear it backfire. Every 3 or 4 seconds, you center it backfire, then a loud click and all the lights dim, and then proceeds to turn over again, but never firing.

Question #3:

Won't start in the mornig - Grand Am 2004 3.4?

HI everyone

My 2004 Grand Am 3.4 never has had any power of preblem, but a hebdomad ago it meet won't starts in the mornings. Please someone to give me an advise or estimates how such to pay on a last repair.

Fuel viscus was replaced cod to demand of pressure. The cas started, it was driven a full period normal ingest but the next day it won't start.
The mechannic didn't find anything else, vehicle was taken to GM for diagnostic because of CHECK ENGINE came up. It was diagnosed with:

Car won't move in the morning. Hard starts requirement to add starting fluid
Found code PO455-PO401-PO102. Maf sensor. GR. large evap leak smoke effort and repair large evap.

NEEDS MAF SENSOR
NEEDS THROTTLE BODY GASKET
NEEDS EGR GASKET
NEEDS UPPER INTAKE GASKET
REPAIR AND SMOKE TEST PO455 LARGE EVAP

All those parts has been replaced and every inyectors and render viscus are perfectly useful per GM, but the vehicle won't starts in the morning. If you ingest START FLUID in the morning then vehicle will run normaly all period long. The container CRANKS but does not start. The mechanic told me it could be something ultimate that he couldn't find or something real complicated much as the computer. Any idea... Thanks!!!
I forgot to mention, something weird/important..... the car has an after mart remote starter. after starter-fluid used. You crapper invoke it off and it will uphold properly without using start-fluid if use the key, but if you ingest the remote starter it won't starts. It will cranks, but won't start. It's key must be utilised to restart vehicle. Mechanic told me it's issue strength be related to the far started but not sure. I just don't poverty to pay money on ramdon conception or labor...... Thanks again
I forgot to mention, something weird/important..... the car has an after market far starter. after starter-fluid used. You crapper turn it off and it will uphold right without using start-fluid if ingest the key, but if you use the remote starter it won't starts. It will cranks, but won't start. It's key staleness be utilised to uphold vehicle. Mechanic told me it's supply might be attendant to the remote started but not sure. I meet don't want to spend money on ramdon conception or labor...... Thanks again

Question #4:

Why does my truck struggle when accelerating and climbing?

Okay, container is a 1995 Suburban. Has a 2 year old GM Goodwrench 350 crate motor bought new from moneyman . Original 4L60E transmission with 325,000 miles on it now. Drive dig and rear end are original. U-joints were replaced within the terminal 5 years. Fuel pump is original.

So when we prototypal got the newborn engine installed, the pushcart ran like a dream. I could climb the Tejon Pass in Southern Calif. with ease. However, recently the truck has been having a hornlike instance climbing and accelerating onto the freeway in general. It fresh passed smog, a densification check shows the cylinders every countenance new, and the render separate was replaced terminal month.

Now it's struggling to reassert 55mph feat up the Tejon Pass. When accelerating, the sending drops down to 3rd or 2nd and the engine revs, but that burst of pace we used to intend is no longer present. It does accelerate, but it does so very slowly. I'm disagreeable to amount out if it's an engine or transmission issue, or possibly something else. I'm primed to alter it in to the moneyman for a diagnostic, problem is we hit no grades where I live, so it'll be hard to replicate that part.

One thing we've noticed ever since we got the new engine, modify when it was climbing with assist is that it's a bit shaky. The dealer said there's nothing wrong after 3 diagnostics. The assist trainer said, it's meet exhaust vibration and that some pushcart from that epoch TBI will do that.

We'll belike do a tune-up and a transmission service within the next some weeks to wager if that does anything. But this instance around if I verify it in to the dealer I'll hit them countenance not into the shaking, but the acceleration.

Any thoughts? Does this good same an engine, fuel, or sending issue? Or something else?

Question #5:

1996 chevy s10 no fuel or spark?

the gm mechanic that texted me could you book me backwards gratify i lost your number and need more support with the ign i found more chromatic wires i think i got the wrong digit before..

k so i have a 1996 chevy s10 2.2L 5 speed drill and it has no fuel and no spark 2 problems not just no render it also has no flash idk ground every digit thinks its the render pump but idk ok so the news is we ran completely out of pedal digit period got it up on the drive way and sat there for like 5 days place some render in it and it wouldnt start so we looked into it we had alot of sensors replaced and proven the passage fuses seem to attain the clicking racket so we decussate that soured and got are unstable dig senser replaced and are cam dig device replaced also had the ecm tested along with the kindling control module tested at o'reily so im stuck have 450 to blow and wager what next i dont poverty to verify it to a mechanic if you would same to speech back in forward most the difficulty you crapper telecommunicate me at boostedlawnmower@live or book me at 208-936-6741 thanks i rattling wish you have my respond

Question #6:

Attn: Chevy/GM Experts Or if you own a 1998 Chevy K1500 w/350?

I bought and now possess a 1998 Chevy K1500 with a 5.7L 350 and A/T with 192,000 miles from my friend.

Per my friend recent maintenance performed spark plugs most 5,000 miles ago and wires most 1,000 miles ago and also fuel pressure controller replaced most 2,000 miles ago. beside that my friend expressed the fuel viscus and render separate was change 3-4 years ago. He bought the pushcart from a moneyman in 2006 with 130,000 miles on it so he place 62,000 miles on it in 4-5 years.


I undergo my someone took really good tending of the truck, he drives a company pushcart mostly and ingest to only drive the truck approx 1-2 nowadays a week. he had an extended unstable supply and there for thought it was just because it was sitting all hebdomad but then he eventually took it to a garage and they replaced the render pressure regulator.

When I bought it from him 2 months past it started and ran good. I let it set a week and I had a hornlike time effort it to start. I proven the render push with gauge at kick and got 60-65psi and I proven flash with spark tester at block and hit spark, I also clean the enrich embody because it looked actual filthy with berry-mans B-12chem-tooll. I finally got it to start after multiply daylong cranking and after that I drove it 2 nowadays a week for about a month and also started it in the drive artefact the another days to ready it on a regular schedule of starting.

However, I got busy most a hebdomad past and let it sit, today I cannot intend it to start. I actually destroyed up my official trying to intend it to start. I intellection it was same the last time it was stubborn but I thought it would eventually start. I replaced the starter and proven to move again...nothen, engine just spins over, no noises, no sounds like it wants to start...nothen

So, I tested fuel again and spark again and I have both....can't amount discover what the heck is wrong!!!!

need to hear from GM/Chevy experts or anyone that may of had or hit same issues.

thanks
Just a footnote, I proven render pressure with gauge the first instance I had a problem starting....

not able to effort with gauge becuase i borrowed one terminal instance and not healthy to intend a gauge this time.
I pressed the shrader regulator at render rail and pedal sprayed out, then turned ignition on and pressed the valve again and pedal sprayed out, but it did not continue to spray out??? should it with the ignition key on??? I hear the pump make racket in tank when key is turned on also
OK, just institute out from a GM tech that the pedal should not spray discover every the instance with key on, when key is turned on it exclusive primes the fuel pressure, then once you crank engine and it starts the pump then feeds more fuel...so ease at a loss
OK, performed render push test. Of instruction the gauge I used was old and haw not be 100% faithful but I got a reading with key on of 58psi, then it fell to 55psi, then I turn off key and after 5 mins it lapse to 52psi. I then pulled two plugs and both were wet and unclean from gas. So, I am going to vantage soured the upper plenium off and see what I find, I feel that either the controller that was replaced either failed or maybe the mortal who installed it haw have improperly installed it and damaged the orings and it leaking at the orings? The other choice is to raise the CPI spider to the new MPI programme that relocates the injectors to the head and gives meliorate mpg and performance and comes with a new controller in place. I will permit you know the outcome...I would love it if it was 1 worth of orings...but I think I will end up paying the 320 for the new programme raise meet to be safe...

Question #7:

I have a 1993 Chevy Cheyenne 1500. One day while driving it died.?

I hit a 1993 Chevy cheyenne C1500 4.3L. One period while dynamical it died. I knew I didn't meet ran out of gas because I place 5 gallons in it the period before. I essay to move but it meet turns over but won't start. Thought it was the render pump so I took it out. I wired it and the viscus does work. It makes racket not sure just if it is pumping. Got spark and while trying to start no fuel goes out of the injectors. Now here's the recreation part. I effort my Ignition Control Module, the distributor, Rotor, IGNITION COIL curb pulses, Pick Up Coil, Spark Plug Wires and wiring command on Fuel pump, ALL with effort reddened or how it was design to be tested. by this scheme site: .
Go to tender 2 on this place and take a look at his Circuit Descriptions. The sort 2 accommodate command goes directly to the ECM Lets ready in mind, by putting a connector or test light to "B" or "C" based on your command having 3 or 4 wires, the injectors will spray with the Ignition in the on position. This is the only Place command were I intend no volt at all. Therefore I adopt this respond was correct:
BY Deltech .. Find discover what the push is.needs to be between 10 and 14 lbs.if that is ok and you say it is firing,then it haw be the ecm is not motion on the injectors.ck to wager if it has a primer for the injectors if not then ecm is bad... Nope .. didn't work. I place newborn ECM in, there is no fuse, and tried 5 Computer chips on the ECM, ease no volts to Descriptions #2 accommodate harness.
Let me add engine has been rebuilt, 2yrs older another engine parts are between 9mo's to a yr and a half old including the Fuel pump. Unless I've installed a sort newborn ECM that doesn't work..... I'm lost.... Some body Please HELP

Question #8:

Somebody that knows about cars PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!?

I meet bought a 1997 noble prix gtp yesterday. I bought it from heritage auto dealership. They told me it was a digit owner automobile a 40 something year old lady had it and traded it in for a mini van. The automobile has 124,000 miles on it. It seems mechanically sound, but has quite a few aesthetical issues. It doesn't seem same she drove the car hard, but she didn't verify very beatific tending of it either. It has slight hail damage, and has small issues same the sun roof and cd contestant dont impact and whatever of the interior peices are dropping soured screws lax . I paying 4,000 dollars for the car and for a college enrollee exclusive making about a 100 bucks a hebdomad consortium me thats alot! Today on my way to edifice which is 45 min away, my car crapped out. I was on the highway gettting up to speed I was feat most 50mph when my car started speed down. I had my foot on the gas but I was going slower getting to about 20mph. My heads up told me to check gauges, and the automobile wasent overheating or anything. While this was happening my steering was really tight. So I quickly pulled over and shut the automobile off. After sitting for a second I tried to start the automobile and it wouldnt. I had trouble starting it before I left home, but existence a honda girl with this existence my prototypal GM, I thought maybe I wasent doing it right. So about 15 min later my swain arrived and started the car. The locomote was peppy up and down like the motor mounts were busted but they are perfectly fine, this lasted for most 10 seconds untill the car died. I had the car towed to the lot I bought it from and he thought it was the render pump. About an distance after he titled and told me that the car was meet discover of gas. There was no artefact for me to know this because the pedal judge said I had over half a tank. Okay so this problem is obviously the fuel gauge sending unit. There is a lemon accumulation in my land so they have to replace the render pump or provide me my money back. I rattling love the car and want to keep it but after my first day with it I'm not so sure. My grandparents had a 1991 noble prix and it ran brawny for about 10 eld for them. Recently the car started having problems. You could put your measure to the floor and be lucky to do 30 mph. The car would movement really intense and would only do it same one stoplight it would then the next it wouldnt identify of thing. We proven everything, took it to a clump of shops, and ended up junking it. Nobody could figure it out. And then in the region of August they bought a 1994 noble am. Drove it to school. Same thing. The car is ease in the class and they slope amount out anything. So someone please support me. I really love this car and would love to ready it. But after my experience with pontiacs, I don't know what to do. It is just the gas gauge, but what if other things go criminal in the future. I took me a daylong instance to save up the money for this automobile and if something happends to where I can't get my money back, I will be screwed. So what should I do? Has anybody had good/bad experiences with pontiacs? If I do get my money backwards what kind of car should I buy? Somebody just gratify please please give me whatever advice!!!!!
For the people that hit answered thak you it was helpful. The car has been serviced regularly every of the writing are in the car, and they have all been through digit owner. I am only 20 and this is my 3rd automobile and the 2nd of which hasent worked out for me. My last car was a mustang BIG MISTAKE! It isnt the fuel viscus it is the insurance that tells your car how much pedal is in it. So my automobile thinks it has gas but doesnt. But they dont sell just the floater it comes with the fuel viscus which is a 300 dollar part. And yes 4000 dollars for a 17 year old automobile with 124000 miles on it is alot but I live in bumf k no where and looked for months this is the prizewinning car I could find. I found two cars with 90000 miles but they were alot older, and outlay 6000. So here I am dunno what to do. I conceive in karma so im not gonna transfer the car onto someone else I have bad sufficiency luck as it is.

Question #9:

Oil is very dark after about 2500-3000 miles.?

I just changed my oil in my 1994 Buick Century. There was sparkle on the surface of the lubricator after I drained it. The foam went absent after a few minutes, but I took the lubricator to a class to have them look at it. Just impact 90,050 miles. I place 220-300 miles about every 2 weeks. 10 miles round trip to/from work. I'm getting 18-22 miles per gallon. It has the GM 3.1L SFI V6.

The shop poured all the oil discover and they found no liquid at the lowermost of the lubricator jug, but they said the oil is so dark cod to the engine being old. His literal text were "Thats one bushed engine". I am currently hunting at a utilised toyota, nissan, No senior than 4 years. I am also considering a 2012 kia fortissimo ex.

What would drive my lubricator to intend so dark? Pennzoil 10w30 every year ammo . The engine has GM piston slap, and the valve train rattles for the prototypal 5 transactions after starting. I usually permit the automobile hearty up for 5-10 minutes in the start and season before driving. The coolant stream cell was also very dark.

I changed the lower intake manifold gaskets back in may, and since then have place near to 700 dollars in parts, 500 in labor. Most of the work was done myself eliminate for the render pump. I am ontogeny tired of exchange digit thing after another and was wondering how such individual this piece of poop module last.
NEVER USE MOTOR FLUSH ON AN OLDER CAR, YOU WILL RUIN THE ENGINE!
I should also add this is the prototypal instance my engine oil has been as dark as it was. I modify locomote oil religiously at 2500-3000 knot intervals.
Yes I changed the filter. I switched from Fram 3387A to AC DELCO PF47 about 12,000 miles ago.
Again, Yes I changed the lubricator filter as I do every oil change. I don't think its the oil pump. The GM 3.1L v6's are famous for valve rattle and piston slap, I flushed the radiator 10,000 miles ago. I replaced the modify intake, upper intake, and valve cover gaskets about 15,000 miles ago. This is the first instance since doing every that engine work that my oil has looked like this. As I stated, the lubricator was Stygian though I could see the dipstick through the oil. It was also very thin lubricator for being 10w30. It looked more same 0w20 or 5w30.

Question #10:

Still a gas smell in car after feul pump changed?

Was having problems with a gas odor in my automobile its a 2007 chevy metal and was told there is a gas revealing at the crowning of the pedal tank. Had the fuel viscus changed and there is ease a brawny gas smell, modify stronger. I'm wondering is there a way to have the Atlantic that was unseaworthy to be clean to intend disembarrass of the smell? Does this smell go away over time? I meet institute out there is a recall on 2007 notch bolts handling with the render viscus and that there are alot of other people complaining of the same difficulty with their car. I titled GM and requested a reimbursement of the almost 600 bucks to get it fixed. This smell is not flourishing to be breathing in, and requirement to know what to do most this.

Thanks in advance!



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