Check Alternator Questions:

Question #1:

GMC Yukon XL 1500 Battery keeps dying?

My GMC territory XL 1500 XL battery keeps ending after a few hours. AAA patterned the shelling and it is good and the alternator is fine. They said I may have a "parastic draw", where something electrical in the car is pulling juice when I turn it off?

Does anyone know most how much that would cost to repair? I titled GMC/Chevy and they crapper exclusive verify me it is 140 to "diagnose" and cannot give me any judge on how much it would cost to mend or repair. I would appreciate some help I can intend from someone who is a journeyman or has had this problem hap to them in the past. Thank you.

Question #2:

Can a bad alternator, bad bearing or bad pulley cause your check engine light to come on?

I hit a 06 Chevy Equinox and my check engine light has came on.

I've taken it to 2 mechanics and both switch couldn't find the problem to the whining racket my automobile was making when I drove it. Lately, its been making a wrinkled noise noise as well. This started a year ago and the terminal time I took my automobile to see a mechanic for this difficulty was 5-6 months ago. Just Thursday, I titled a different mechanic to find the difficulty for me because the whining and noise has gotten worse. He told me to bring it in Monday, so that's my plan. But, today the check engine reddened came on and I was wondering if a bad alternator, bearing or pulley could cause it to become on.

Thanks!
My automobile has most 62,100 miles on it
I had a newborn track put in at 60,000 miles

Question #3:

Sound of water sloshing in engine area?

I had my timing belt, water pump, and alternator belt denaturized on Monday. Ever since, I've been chance the racket of water sloshing around in the engine area. It's not terribly loud, but noticable, and typically when I'm fastening or accelerating from a stop light. Tonight I also heard it when I prefabricated a intense turn. I hit never heard this good before, until I get the impact done Monday. I'm thinking on attractive it back to the shop to get patterned tomorrow, but some ideas? What's going on?

Someone advisable low coolant, which I checked... it's most half way between "full' and "low" so shouldnt be causing this sound.
Edit.... I've also noticed, since this work was done, that the "hum" of my automobile is slightly higher in pitch. Not a lot, and it's definitely not a admit noise or anything... meet a different hum. Is this connatural with the new belts etc?

Question #4:

1986 firebird, headlights, interior lights and taillights don't work? help please?

the interior, headlights and the tailights on my 86 flycatcher do not work. but the brake lights and blinkers do work. the fuses every seem to be fine. the headlights are outrigged up correct now with the noesis accommodate existence broached to the alternator. what could my problem be? could it be the race are bad? or could it be bad groundings? if you conceive its the groundings where would they be at so i can check them? thanks guys

Question #5:

Car overheating, heater blowing cold air. Coolant is full. What could be wrong?

Hello,

It's a Suzuki Alto 1984. It was a unusually algid farewell today i.e. -30 C or -22F . The automobile was totally frozen, and was pretty hard to get it started. When it started, I crowd for 2 kms and noted the automobile was overheating and heater was blowing cold air.
I stopped at the close bus stop and patterned coolant, the coolant in stream bottleful was part frozen. However, the radiator was hot, also the lower radiator hose was hot, thus the thermostat appears to be working fine.
I patterned the alternator track one that drives water viscus and track appears to be in good condition. The coolant in the radiator is not frozen, and it is hot. There is no oil in the coolant and no coolant in the oil, so I conceive head gasket is fine.
When I open the radiator cap and raise throttle, the coolant level goes down and on releasing throttle coolant take rises, perhaps this mean water viscus is also fine?
I think, there strength be some coolant icy in the lines somewhere, or could it be the water pump? A bit confused.

Thanks for your answers.

Question #6:

94 integra alternator?

how crapper u analyse if alternator is charging shelling without removing alternator? i know if you put the test cables and it reads between 14.5 and 14.7 or .8 it should be dustlike im not just trusty

Question #7:

Just replaced a MAP sensor now the battery light is on...does this sound suspicious ?

The the analyse engine light came in my automobile and the cipher suggested the MAP sensor should be replaced. i took it to what i thought was a reputable mechanic and they charged me 357 all amount to change the MAP sensor. The automobile worked substantially for digit life after that. Now the check engine reddened is off but the shelling reddened is on and you crapper center the engine sounds strained. The track sounds louder than normal. The battery reddened indicates it is not receiving a comely charge. I am concerned the journeyman patch replacing the MAP sensor haw hit compromised either the alternator or the wiring command on the alternator. i am thinking of occupation the mechanic to communicate most this. when i picked up the automobile friday he said he would same me to come in monday to inspect if the car has some pending codes that may advance to the check engine light. i am suspicious he set something up KNOWING i would be occupation monday, or forcing me to become in. what are your thoughts?

2005 author Focus 2.3L 78k miles
great shape
receives comely turn maintenance
thanks. he claimed they crowd the car for 70 miles on friday to analyse for some issues.
you have to adjudge the timing is a lowercase fishy....

Question #8:

No start, main relay?

Hi all,

I have a 2006 Honda Civic DX with 72,000 miles on it.

Last night I eventually was able to intend my aggregation replaced after having it sit for 5 life with the shelling disconnected. After we took it for a effort drive around the neighborhood we definite that it was beatific to go.

The next morning, patch dropping my friend soured my car seemed to dillydally to a click that came from my dashboard, with the analyse engine, malfunction indicator lamp, lubricator push and seat belt light motion on. We rolled it to the side of the road and tried play it but were not successful. The automobile turns over but it just wont start. I replaced the battery and patterned my alternator, so that wasn't the problem. After most 15 minutes however, we were healthy to move it same normally,but the clicking and lights overturned back on and off about 4 nowadays and my car seemed to dillydally with every click. Now it will not move at all.

We also notice that at motion the key to "on" or function 2, we do not center the render pump motion on, and the malfunction indicator lamp stays on.

My question is, could this hit anything to do with the clutch equal and or the main relay? I read that the important relay produces similar symptoms to this along with a bad ecu, but usually exclusive happens in rattling hot condiditons? The weather has not absent over 40 degrees for the last 3 months.

The guy who changed my clutch said that the exclusive electrical he grazed were the reverse reddened on the Tranny, the air flow sensor on the intake, and the speedometer. We had them checked to attain sure they were place back correctly.

All my electrical works, every my lights invoke on and my stereo modify works fine so I don't think that would be an electrical short. I also clean soured all the contacts on my battery.

I just dished out 600 to have my clutch replaced, and don't really hit much more to spend on more repairs.

Does anyone have any ideas to what it could be?

Thank you rattling such in Advance!

Question #9:

How do you tell if the alternator or battery is keeping a vehicle from running w/o a voltmeter? can you?

I am a welder/mechanic and I haven't touched every my tools to a new job, same a multimeter. A diminutive older forklift, no ecm, would not move so I cleaned the dirty! terminals, grounds, connections to official and solenoid they were together , nothing. So I put a non-LED effort light on the battery, it was dim. Then I tested the starter's connector and the solenoid's positive, aforementioned light. Then I pulled the accommodate from the solenoid and checked it with the test light, when I impact the ignition alter it glowed dim, same the other tests. Having no another effort tools, I pulled up the shop's assist truck and jumpered it off, and it started, I ran it for about 15 minutes on the jumpers and went to pull the cables, and the forklift shut soured at erst the was off. So I started it back up, waited a little and pulled the perverse off first, and it still closed soured immediately.
I'm assuming that the shelling would hold no calculate whatsover all the cells were full, though . and that the f/l depended on the shop truck, but for battery or alternator? The politico said we'll mend it tomorrow. I thought that I should hit patterned the batt voltage if I could have, tried to calculate the battery alone, unconnected, if needed, then place it in and patterned charging voltage of the f/ls alternator. We had another batteries that were new but a different style unification post and size, same voltage, but not practical to alter over meet for a test.. Please advise. If they ask tomorrow, I'd same to verify them It seemed as though the forklift acted fine with the trucks system, but if it had that battery would the alt. keep it charged?

Question #10:

is my car radiator broken?

i have a mazda protege 2003

my car is overheating, i filled it completely with radiator fluid, changed the cap, denaturized the thermostat. and during this my battery clew appeared and the lights dim and sounds muffled, i patterned the battery at an machine parts accumulation and they said it was good but baritone on charge, after a some life of fixing the car, the car wouldn't start cod to the battery. i got it patterned again and they said it was dead and garbage, i got anther one. the difficulty exclusive appeared when the car was overheating. i have reason to believe the automobile isnt overheating because the tack will reach 75% when 45% is normal, erst i kibosh the car the tack module immediately go back downbound to 45%.. can electrical problems with the alternator or radiator drive my automobile to appear as overheating? i also hit no blistering expose

hopefully enough info, impart you for anyone who was selection to take instance into helping me resolve my issue!!



** Powered by Yahoo Answers