Bleeding Master Cylinder Questions:

Question #1:

is it normal to have a bit of air or residue in a hydraulic clutch line after bleeding out corrupted fluid?

had someone accidently rain a taste of coolant in my aggregation master chamber resevoir this time summer and i didnt attending some problems until December...when the clutch tone wouldnt convey every the artefact up. I had the aggregation line bled..and it seemed like it would not come up all the artefact infrequently for first month until past week or two..it seems to be employed fine now..but does hit same problem with clutch feeling soft...maybe digit time per week.

is this maybe cod to the aggregation line needing to blow discover any residue left maybe? and by pumping it while dynamical more and more it will drive every residue to wager release by pushing expose and residue up to the master cylinder resevoir for release?

what added crapper do?
by one time per week..i am meaning it just happens digit instance pressing the clutch..i have to pull up the tone with my foot...and i meet viscus the pedal a few times..and then it is dustlike for rest of week.

Question #2:

97 Integra brake fluid gone from clutch reservoir?

couple weeks back i noticed a bit of a sluggishness in my aggregation pedal, taste smushy. the incoming period when i went to start my car and place it in reverse, it wouldnt shift. checked the aggregation reservoir, it was every but blank of brake fluid. refilled it after bleeding, i'm REAL intense with maintenance, the fluid was artefact filthy , and it ran fine. It has separate fine ever since. the master and slave aggregation cylinders are both dry, Where did the changeful go? and do i requirement to worry?

it has been running fine for the time 3 weeks, the aggregation lake has not denaturized since i refilled it.
what happened? how did this changeful disappear?
thanks, i'll countenance into those areas. but like i said, the level of changeful has not denaturized in the past threesome weeks of my driving the car, not modify by a little. I intend somewhere at least 6 days a week, i hit no intent ground it hasn't lost any fluid.

and both the officer and slave cylinders have already been checked, both completely dry.
there's null leaking in behind the pedal, and there is no fluid pooling under the vehicle, nor some stain.

it does not seem to be leaking, but yeah i concord it had to go somewhere. i meet dont intend how it leaked, then stopped leaking. could it hit something to do with how dirty the changeful was in the prototypal place?

Question #3:

have a 72 bug and put all wheel cylinders,all lines,and a new master cylinder can't get brakes to pump up?

I governance bleed officer cylinder,bleed all brakes,but still brakes don't hit some pressure.The brake peddel goes to story Help?
Thanks for all help but I hit replaced all lines,all rotate cylinders,and officer cylinder.I also hit a assistance air vacuum viscus I used and I bleed all cylinders and ease no pressure when I mash the peddle.Lines not kibosh up,no leaks went finished 2 bounteous bottles of fluid.still no pressure.do u think strength got a intense newborn officer chamber or what???

Question #4:

Why does my car shutter going into first but once im going its fine?

i hit a drill 1987 jeep cherokee that i meet bought and it was having a hard instance getting going in first gear but erst it was feat it was fine. ive replaced the master chamber and still nothing, i drained and spread the aggregation but now its meet hornlike to place it in gear. a buddy of mine told me it strength be the slave cylinder. any one got any ideas what it could be?

Question #5:

Why does my clutch partially disengage after master cylinder replacement but not fully?

I just replaced the aggregation officer cylinder on my 1986 GMC S15 Jimmy and when I downcast the clutch, I could center it part relinquish but was unable to place it in gear with the locomote on. I had replaced the slave cylinder a couple eld ago so that wasn't the problem. There was no pressure on the aggregation pedal until about 2/3 of the way down.

I proven a partial "bench" bleed but found that it would be impossible to establish it because of the location of every the another parts. I bled and bled and bled the system from the slave chamber but ease nothing improved. Finally I removed the slave cylinder from the sending housing with the line ease bespoken and tardily pushed the rod all the way backwards into the enslaved cylinder. I heard whatever spitting noise and when I went to push the clutch in, it was extremely concern with no travel. Some how air was unfree in slave chamber and pushing the rod in was what it took to get it out. It's better today then before.

How this helps someone discover there. I surmisal I meliorate ask a question, did I do good? ;>

Question #6:

I bought new brakes for my truck and won't brake?

i changed my c1500 face calipers, rotors and officer chamber and when we attain it bleed it seems like they are finished but when we turn the pushcart it doesnt brushwood what so ever, everything i bought is brand new, what could it be? could it be that i need a new booster? thanks
yeah its an 88 so its really not hi tech, but immah countenance in at the booster and i did have a friend who knows how to spread them

Question #7:

how quickly & much does the brake fluid inside the line & calipers mix with fresh fluid poured into resevoir?

have had someone pour coolant into my officer chamber resevoir for my aggregation and brushwood line..and was wondering if just draw discover what is in the master chamber resevoir and pour firm brushwood changeful inside..how quickly that module mix with the whole fluid inside the line , callipers and cylinders for clutch? module pressing on the tone continuously after intermixture the fresh fluid in with the entire changeful rattling quickly? or how quickly? and does it "Recycle" it self? go in cycles ..will siphoning discover again and again maybe 4 times over 1 month and renewal again with firm brake changeful get firm brushwood fluid pretty such coverall after 4-5 nowadays of doing above?

how differs for the brakes vs. the clutch?

I dont poverty to bleed all quaternary brake and clutch..as it is really cushy to get air into the line i think.. especially if dont hit someone to support is true?

thanks

Question #8:

Is it really important to flush out Antifreeze from brake and clutch lines if was added accidently to resevoir?

somehow Antifreeze.. or i conceive it is anyways..as it is a naif changeful was added to the master cylinder resevoirs of the clutch and brushwood lines of my 1993 Toyota truck..and the pedals are not feeling connatural when advise on the clutch pedal or the brushwood pedal...and was wanting to know if meet DONT HAVE THE MONEY to clear someone to dowse my clutch and brushwood line...and dont poverty to this myself...is it alright to meet let it set in the vehicle for a month...and meet dont intend it?

or will drive problems and permanant alteration to components and line? if so, how and which ones?

And was intellection also,,if meet viscus out the changeful in the officer chamber resevoirs and add fress brake fluid..there will ease be a momentous amount in my clutch and brushwood lines? but it module be meliorate and better as i intend it and intermixture the precise changeful backwards into the system? is it there forward needed to bleed it..if meet do this a some nowadays over a period of 2 months of driving it? also, please explain why.

thanks

Question #9:

Breaking problem on 1993 dodge d250 pickup.?

I spread the breaks and it breaks perfect with no sponginess on the pedal. A pugilism 3 minutes of driving later it gets spongy and breaks horribly. There's are no visible leaks on some of the break lines. It has a sort new master.cylinder aswell. What is the problem.

Thanks in advance.

Question #10:

Replacing brake fluid (ABS)?

Toyota Matrix 2009 base model with ABS
1.8 L, DOT 3, 2ZR-FE

I have a MityVac Vacuum Pump

1 Remove most of the older brushwood fluid, but not all, from the master cylinder reservoir.
2 Top off the MC reservoir with new brushwood fluid.
3 Put the motion on the bleeder valve then confiscate the MityVac.
4 Pump the MityVac a couple nowadays then fissure unstoppered the bleeder regulator then near after a few seconds.
5 Repeat #4 until decent changeful flows with no air bubbles.
6 Repeat #4 & #5 for the another bleeder valves.

Are my steps correct?

The car manual didn't say anything most the order I should spread the valves but I did encounter for '03 - '08 models: RR, LR, RF, LF. Though the MityVac drill says to start with the regulator closest to the MC to the farthest one. Which ordering should I use, unless their's a universal injury sequence?

A couple websites feature to be cautious with vehicles with ABS, and that I need a scan tool and/or to depressurize the ABS BEFORE I bleed the valves. Do I really requirement a construe agency and how do I set the ABS?

Is there anything else that I'm missing or requirement to do?



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