AC Compressor Problem Questions:


Question #1:

Air conditioning is not cold?

Air conditioning is not cold?
air conditioning is not cold?
i have a 96 camaro 3.8. earlier today i was driving and thought it would be a good idea to permit the ac separate for a lowercase while. while it was quick to modify from modify to ambient algid air, the expose never really got colder than ambient temperature.

when i got home i opened the cowl and saw that the wheel thing on the end of the compressor not the connatural intend wheel, the modify "clutch"thing was moving when the ac was on, and was not moving when the ac was off, just as it should.

when i overturned the engine off, i institute that the same rotate on the modify of the compressor was pretty easy to twist. when i twisted the wheel by assistance i could center a faint gurgling noise coming from around where i envisage the heater set is, or something around that area.

when i ran the automobile with its hood unstoppered at the warmed-up baritone idle, about 650-700rpm , with the ac on and the rotate on the compressor spinning, after about a minute i cound not rattling feel any modify in the temperature in the silver chamber thats in the ac lines between the compressor and the exclusive of the vehicle evap. canister? . it not really get hotter or colder.

what do you think is wrong? i dont undergo when the old man i bought it from had terminal run the ac...

please gratify please be able to tell me that it is just becasue the ac has sat unused for a while,and it meet needs to run for a patch at superhighway speeds with the ac on or something like that... or maybe the automobile takes the intake expose worker and exclusive activates the ac when the ambient air is hearty it was 64 in the candid sun when i drove it today ?

i checked the lines as such as i could see exclusive the engine bay, and there is no grounds of a leak at some of the connectors. i apparently slope wager anything past the firewall, bu there was no sitcky residue or anything on any of the connectors in the engine bay. i also took soured the cover of the regulator thats rght before the upper unification to the expose conditioning radiator i undergo its called something else and, using the nous of a nab and a file, i place the nous of the nab on the tio of the valve an meet barely broached the modify of the nail until i could center an extremely hurried puff of air. im sreious it was many some nowadays shorter than the puff of expose you intend when you verify a ring pump soured a tire valve... when i finally did release a tiny puff of gas, i measured same there was a aggregation of push behind it, more than a ring has. so there is in fact freon in the system.

i rattling dont poverty to hit an ac problem hunt...

thanks

Question #2:

air conditioning is not cold?

air conditioning is not cold?
i hit a 96 camaro 3.8. earlier today i was driving and intellection it would be a good idea to permit the ac separate for a lowercase while. while it was quick to change from heat to ambient cold air, the expose never rattling got colder than ambient temperature.

when i got bag i unsealed the hood and saw that the wheel abstract on the end of the compressor not the connatural intend wheel, the modify "clutch"thing was moving when the ac was on, and was not spinning when the ac was off, meet as it should.

when i overturned the engine off, i institute that the aforementioned rotate on the end of the compressor was pretty cushy to twist. when i twisted the rotate by assistance i could center a fearful gurgling racket reaching from around where i imagine the bullet set is, or something around that area.

when i ran the car with its hood unstoppered at the warmed-up low idle, about 650-700rpm , with the ac on and the rotate on the compressor spinning, after about a time i cound not rattling see any modify in the temperature in the silver chamber thats in the ac lines between the compressor and the inside of the container evap. canister? . it not rattling get hotter or colder.

what do you think is wrong? i dont undergo when the old man i bought it from had last separate the ac...

please gratify gratify be able to tell me that it is just becasue the ac has sat clean for a while,and it meet needs to separate for a patch at superhighway speeds with the ac on or something like that... or maybe the automobile takes the intake air temp and only activates the ac when the ambient expose is warm it was 64 in the direct sun when i crowd it today ?

i rattling dont poverty to hit an ac problem hunt...

thanks

Question #3:

Idle Pulley issues 2001 Maxima?

A pair years ago, I had to change the alternator on my 2001 Maxima. The manual said to vanish the curved belt, and then advise onto the alternator. Well the problem is that when I tried the vanish the belt, the Maxima is finished a lowercase differently than its American counterparts. You have loosen the tensioner that sits on top of bum machine looks like a daylong bolt , and remove the 14mm junky on the machine itself meet to vanish the belt. Well the problem is that the junky was on so damn tight, I unexpectedly rounded the nut to where no conventional wrench crapper intend it off. There's not a aggregation of clearance in the spot where the idler machine is most half the breadth of my mitt . A standard socket motion can't fit in there, and an open end wrench was meet doing the same thing by rounding the junky even more. I bought a strpped-nut/bolt remover that's suppose to "bite" into the nut and get it off the pulley. Problem is, that the agency fits only onto a socket wrench, which again, cannot fit in that diminutive space. I had a whole big supply when I eventually replaced the alternator, because in order to remove belt, I had to vanish the AC compressor which had to be finished anyways to remove the alternator , but it's suppose to be held in with 4 large bolts. It doesn't hit every 4 because to intend the track backwards onto the system again, I had to place the belt around the AC compressor and try to re-install the AC compressor with the enmity of the track performing against me and as a result, I could exclusive intend 3 of the 4 bolts back on. I would like to once and for every fix this difficulty right so that it puts my nous to rest. Any suggestions on how the nut soured the idler pulley? I heard either Dremmeling it off, or drilling a diminutive hole in the side of the junky and then using something to clutch onto the hole to get it off were 2 beatific options, but I don't know if I trust my sources. I don't poverty to damage anything else, but don't feel same stipendiary through the nose at a dealership or mechanic. I'm a DIYer, and would like to do it myself. Also, is the junky any category of special part, or just a accepted 14mm bolt that I can intend for 10 cents at the hardware store? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks for reading.

Question #4:

Problem with Carrier Compressor/Heat Pump?

I have an older 1986 carrier 38sq heating/ac unit, where the heat viscus and compressor are separate units, compressor existence indoors . when i go to invoke on the ac, the compressor makes a clicking sound and nothing, the compressor nor the heat viscus turns on. i have feature a lowercase taste about it on the internet, and im guessing it could be the start support capacitor, or the separate capacitor that strength be busted and is preventing it to start. the clicking sounds same its coming from where the Cera-Mite start support condenser is. hopefully somebody can tell me which digit of the two it is, or if its something else.
Here is the manual for my unit



Question #5:

Chevy S-10 problem? a/c compressor possibly?

I hit a '98 s-10 and terminal night it started respiration so i pull over and i hit a flushed spot on my ac/compressor pulley. is it the compressor protection up? if not what is it?

    AC Compressor Problem





Question #6:

Thermostat Wiring Help?

I have been trying to update my thermostat to a newer digital, programmable, heat pump compatible type. Originally had an old Goettl thermostat, mercury switch type installed. The AC Unit w/ heat viscus was replaced a year ago with a 14 SEER, prepacked unit Amana. During the summer, had no difficulty running the unit on cold. It seemed to control worker with no issues. When I switched it to heat, the unit was making weird sounds when the compressor would turn off. I was thinking that maybe the compressor wasnt on daylong sufficiency when it closed down, maybe a newer regulator would control better. When I removed the old thermostat, I detected Y and W were jumped. The White W accommodate was not modify connected up to the thermo wires exclusive the ac unit. So I adjoining the white wire, which does go to the W on the defrost/control board, independently to the new regulator and distant the Y to W jumper. Cool fashion would kick on the compressor, modify mode would not. Was getting 24V at the white accommodate patterned at the W connection in the unit. So I jumped W to Y, distant the white wire, adjoining chromatic to Y, chromatic to O, was heating and cooling normally. After a pair of hours in Auto heat mode, the register was blowing out algid air. Turned off the AC unit to center this blasting whosh good reaching from the unit. Waited about 30 minutes, overturned it to heat and it was heating again.

Not sure why the unit needs the yellow wire energized to invoke on the compressor. Shouldnt the white accommodate be installed for heat and turn on the compressor independantly? Seems same there is something criminal with my new organisation if the albescent wire cannot kick the compressor on without Y.

Anybody have any experience with this?

Question #7:

Central Air Compressor replaced?

My Central AC/heater is not working - I had a fixer come discover the aforementioned one I used last instance on a referral , and they are informing me the problem is the compressor which needs to be replaced at 1200. The heater blew a fuse and is not hot the air. They replaced the compressor on this unit only 1 1/2 eld ago. They said the think it needs to be replaced again is that particles from the grouping modify though they blew it decent last time has passed finished a separate they installed in-line and blew the compressor. I hit a little understanding of equipment, and this doesn't attain sense to me. I'd like to undergo if anyone can support me out, before I cough up 1200. The repairman also tells me the coolant it uses won't be available likewise much longer, so I should replace the unit. Note - my bicentric ac organisation is most 10 years older if this makes a difference .

Question #8:

AC blows hot when idle, car overheats?

When my automobile '04 Suzuki Aerio is idle, the compressor cuts soured and the AC blows hot. Shortly after achievement about 2000rpm, it'll invoke back on and it'll expiration ice cold. This is related to the RPM and not the car moving, as it also does this patch parked in neutral. If too such time passes with the compressor off, the engine temperature reddened goes on the instrument commission on the '04 is digital , even when the radiator follower is on the AC follower is also on, ie both fans are moving . As presently as the compressor kicks on again, temperature light shuts off. All this makes me conceive every the heat is coming from the compressor.

This is just added thing on the itemize of AC issues I've had in the past some months. Previously it would typically expiration warmer in the salutation than at morning/night which was resolved on adding whatever refrigerant ; a professed gauge indicates that the pressure is fine so daylong as the compressor is on.

Also, previously the AC would typically only work and kinda well whenever it wanted, usually when the car was in change revving in neutral had no effect here . I thought it was an electrical problem, and was able to cipher this by replacing the lense relay. This was about a hebdomad ago, before my current difficulty prototypal appeared.

Of note, most a year and a half ago my curved belt broke, and when I had it replaced the journeyman insisted I also needed a newborn belt tensor. After that employ the track would achievement whenever the automobile was in anything but P/N; the tensor overturned out to be fine, and the problem solved itself when a smaller track was placed on the car. I mention this because of the existence of the difficulty existence the belt on the lense although I've had no problems with the track for most a year .

The lense on the car was restored a lowercase inferior than a year go.

Any support would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
When I feature the AC blows hot, I'm referring to ambient temperature. However, In Puerto Rico "hot" and "ambient" are pretty such the same.

And what I switched was the "compressor relay" rather than "condenser relay", defence the typo.

Question #9:

1999 ford ranger ac problem?

im disagreeable to figure discover if my ac aggregation is bad or my compressor. while it runs it screams the full time but gets a lowercase quieter when i invoke on the ac i intend cold air no problem but i proven adding whatever spray lube directly to my aggregation and the noise compleatly went absent but came back in 5 secs so im intellection my aggregation is feat bad?
the racket is coming from the ac compressor and it gets louder the more gas i give it

Question #10:

Does the level that your air conditioning is set to affect load on the engine?

I know that having the AC on lowers your MPG and power. And I undergo that the actual follower that pushed the expose is electric, but what I don't undergo is whether the AC compressor is strictly on/off or if it's practice varies depending on air flow.

I intend a 1994 Explorer Sport. I have seen people try to save pedal by environment the AC to the lowest setting, like 1 discover of 1-2-3-4, and I am just wondering if they are doign that in vain.

Also, would it support to hit the temperature setting not every the way to the cold side?

I exclusive wager a MPG difference of most 1; it is more peculiarity than a problem.



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